I'm back! I was camping without internet connection for a few days. It was creepy, I felt so out of touch with the world. I did write down in a book my experiences for the past few days, and I'll copy what I wrote to livejournal for your enjoyment. Warning: I went a little overboard with the pictures in this post, and I still only linked to a fraction of the pictures I took over the past few days. Please do not click on the links if that will cause your computer to have a nervous breakdown. Also, if anyone would like to see more pictures (not counting the people who already have access to the snapfish account) please email me and I will send them to you. The best are here anyway, I think.
Day 4 (August 10th, 2007):To South Dakota, we go! The drive across Minnesota is boring. Trees, corn, more corn, and some cows. Then whoa! We enter SD. I have never seen any place like this -- it's like entering an alien world. It's amazing to me to be able to see so far away. Almost no trees in this part of the state, and possibly even fewer buildings. Just rolling hill after hill of brown grass, and some bright green grass. No corn! Lots of cows, though. They looked like they were just running wild over the empty hills and valleys. (Mmm, steak!) So I have now confirmed that the state of South Dakota exists. I'm still not sure more than ten people live here, though. Michael Bear and I stopped for gas at a random place off I-90 (now nothing like the I-90 of MA or NY) but we couldn't even get to the pumps because there were a bazillion bikers there filling up their tanks. We stopped anyway to see what a real SD pit stop in what felt like the middle of nowhere was like. Apparently this week in some kind of biker gathering week. There are endless parades of motorcycles on the roads. At both campsites now the proprietors have "warned" me about all the bikers I would be camping with. I'm not sure why, because of course they always follow up with "But they're great folk!" Which seems to be true. I camped next to a biker family yesterday that was travelling with a biker grandpa! Guy must have been at least 70-something, still wearing Harley leather clothing. He had trouble getting into his tent, but he could still ride a bike. I want to be old like that someday. And today I hung out with Canadian bikers from Montreal in the Badlands, they are to be thanked for all the pictures of me.
So! The Badlands. I only spent an hour there this evening, and plan to go back tomorow. Better than Niagara, I think. Well, maybe not so much the place as the atmosphere. Niagara was a tourist trap surrounding something beautiful. Very crowded. This place feels mostly empty. I sat alone for about ten minutes looking out across the park and I don't think I've ever heard so much quiet before. It's very still and serene, except for the wind blowing through. It makes me feel very small, in a good way.
To bed now. Hopefully I won't blow away. The wind is crazy and there might be a storm tonight. That'll be interesting. Oz, here I come!
Day 5 (August 11th, 2007)
I didn't blow away last night, though I remain convinced that it was a close call. I couldn't sleep after climbing into my sleeping bag. I just kept lying there, staring in paranoid fascination as the sides of my tent shook like crazy. Eventually I gave up sleep and joined the group in the next site over at their fire for a few hours. After that, I was tired enough that I didn't really care if I blew away.
I got up early this morning to enjoy the Badlands some more while it was still cool and not crowded. It was just as impressive in the morning. In the afternoon I decided to go to Wall Drug. I had no idea what this "Wall Drug" was, but the place had signs all along I-90 for at least a hundred miles prior to the actual stop. Of course, none of those signs said what it was exactly, but I knew from them that the mysterious "Wall Drug" had pie, coffee,
FREE ice water (wow!), biker leather and a dinosaur. An irresistible combination, really. There actually was an 80 foot dinosaur awaiting me at the turn-off. Sadly, I did not get a picture. The great Wall Drug turned out to be a whole bunch of random stores and a cafe (with FREE ice water!) all smushed together. It was impressive mostly in the number of people there, more than I've seen since entering SD. Of course, they were all tourists (75% bikers) so it still doesn't prove that more than 15 people live in this state. I came very close to buying a can of "Buffalo milk-- GUARANTEED to cure what ails you!" but instead I bought a tube of chapstick that put me over my expenditure limit for the day.
Oh, and I determined that the biker gathering is called Sturgis, which I'm sure most of you know already. It was new to me, though. I think I should buy myself some Harley leather attire and go stand by one of the motorcycles I've seen left by the side of I-90. I could pretend to be one of them and hitch a ride. Now that would be an adventure.
Tomorrow I'm off to Mt. Rushmore, which I don't think is far. I had planned on just stopping there on the way to Yellowstone, but I'm going into internet withdrawal. I found a cheap hotel with a Wi-Fi connection, so I'll be able to put my pictures online for the viewing pleasure of all.
That is, assuming I don't blow away tonight instead. Yesterday could have been a fake-out.
Day 6 (August 12th, 2007)
Not a very long drive today, though the terrain changed wildly again. I am now the in forested Black Hills of South Dakota. It's very beautiful here of course, I went for a long drive and hike through the nearby Custer park, which has crazy winding roads that tilted so much going around hairpin turns that I was vaguely afraid I would slide right off of them. I also visited Mt. Rushmore, of course, though I didn't find it all that impressive. I mean, I admire the skill and effort and time that went into carving such a huge monument, but in the end there's only so long I can look up at four giant faces before they start to bore me. And the little visitor's center was rather sappily patriotic. Which you'd expect, but I don't think it was really very educational. I have been forced to admit that more than 15 people probably live in this state. I've discovered lots of houses and stores in this area, so I am raising my estimate of the population of South Dakota to 315. (I hope there are no South Dakota natives being offended by this joke. You have a beautiful state! Just very empty compared to what I'm used to.)
The best part of the day was a stop at the nearby Mt. Rushmore caves, which were very cool. Unfortunately, I forgot that I had left my camera on the passenger seat of my car this morning, when I took my last few Badlands pictures, so I didn't have it when I went into the caves. They give a very entertaining tour. There's a lot of climbing and slipping through narrow areas and ducking under low hanging spots. It freaked out a few people in the tour group, so I got to feel smug and advantaged, for once, to be my tiny self.
I think tonight will be an early bedtime. I spent too much of the last two nights worried about being swept across the Badlands with a strong gust of wind. And I got up at 5 this morning when thunder started booming overhead. That was just too much for me.